Friday September 1, 2023 Adair to Cedar Falls, Iowa

Kent and Jenifer
Living Room of our Apartment Accommodation in Cedar Falls

After a nice visit with family at the farm in Adair, we headed about 225 miles northwest to Cedar Falls, Iowa, where we would meet up with an old friend of Kent’s from the 1970’s in New York.

Cedar Falls, home to the University of Northern Iowa, is a city of approximately 40,000 inhabitants. Cedar Falls, along with the neighboring city of Waterloo are known as the Cedar Valley due to the Cedar River that traverses the vicinity. First settled in 1845 by William R. Sturgis and Erasmus D. Adams the city was originally called Sturgis Falls. Because of the availability of water power, Cedar Falls developed as a milling and industrial center prior to the Civil War.

We met up with Jenifer, a friend of Kent’s, who lived in the same apartment building in New York City in 1970. They have remained friends for all of these years. Jenifer grew up in Cedar Falls where her father worked at the university. She recently moved back to Cedar Falls from Syracuse where she had lived for some time.

We had lunch with Jenifer and her sister Mary at a local sports bar restaurant called Pepper’s. Like many sports bars, the food is mostly fried and contains lots of calories. After lunch we went to Mary’s home which is actually the home that Jenifer and Mary grew up in. Their parents lived there until their dad passed away and their mother moved to a senior living facility in 1989, where Jenifer now resides. Mary baked a delicious peach cobbler for dessert with vanilla ice cream. Yum!!

The home they grew up in is a lovely large two-story traditional home with an enclosed porch, a basement and a large attic. It has three bedrooms upstairs, one with an attached sun porch, a formal living and dining room, a family room, eat-in kitchen and two bathrooms. It retains much of its original charm with dark wood window sashes, hardwood floors, paneling and generous sized rooms.

At about 5:00pm we headed over to a pub that is in the same senior facility where Jenifer lives for a drink and some appetizers. The pub is part of an enclosed main street where the local community is invited to participate in activities at the community, including this pub. On Friday evenings they have live entertainment, which on this evening was a local singer and pianist. We enjoyed getting to meet the executive director and some of the residents and community members at the pub.

After the pub, Jenifer took us on a driving tour around Cedar Falls. We saw lovely tree lined neighborhoods with traditional homes as well as all sorts of retail shops and restaurants. It appears to be a charming university town with lots of things to do and places to go. Unfortunately, they also have this thing called winter even though it was about 88 degrees today.

Jenifer had arranged a room/apartment for us at her senior facility for two nights. It was a great, comfortable place for us to stay at a very reasonable price ($75 per night).

Thursday August 31, 2023 Adair, Illinois

Macomb Courthouse
Pennington Point Cemetery
Mark on a Tractor with Blaine, Steve and Dave
Mark in the Cornfields
Tenderloin Sandwich

This morning we had a meeting with the farm operators Dave and Steve to discuss the removal of some buildings and trees that need to be removed.

For lunch we met a second cousin of Kent’s named Nancy on the Macomb square at a place called Chubby’s. They offered a variety of salads, tacos, sandwiches and fish dishes. We had an enjoyable time catching up on the extended family.

After lunch we visited the Pennington Point Cemetery located near Macomb, Illinois where Kent’s parents and many relatives are buried. The cemetery is only about two acres in size but has been there since its first burial in 1834. In 1881 or 1882, it was surveyed and laid out into lots. The cemetery name comes from John Stuart Pennington who donated the land for use as a cemetery.

We spent the afternoon with Kent’s cousin Lennie’s wife, Bonnie, who is the mother of Steve and Dave. They have a farm just across the street from one of Kent and Dedra’s two parcels of land. While we were visiting inside, Steve, Dave and Blaine were cleaning out the last storage bin of their corn to be sold at a grain elevator in Adair. The bin cleaning process required the boys to get into the storage bin with shovels to assist the auger in clearing out the remaining kernels of corn. After cleaning out the bin Mark had a chance to ride one of the small tractors.

For dinner, the family headed to a nearby township called Bernadotte with a population of about 275 residents. The Bernadotte Café is a restaurant and bar that serves up pork tenderloins, fish, burgers and homemade specials. Several of us had the famous tenderloin sandwiches. We only had the 1/2 tenderloin portion sandwiches but they also come in a ¼ and full tenderloin sizes. Pepper jack cheese and onion rings finish off the sandwich.

Wednesday August 30, 2023 Chicago to Adair, Illinois

Typical Illinois Landscape with Soy Bean Field
Old Corn Crib to be Torn Down
Old Garage Needing Demolition

Late this morning we headed from Glen Ellyn to Adair, Illinois, where Kent’s family has had family farms for over 125 years. The 215-mile drive took us about four hours with a couple of rest stops along the way. 

Adair is a small farming community in McDonough County with a population of only 212 residents. Adair was laid out in 1870 under the name of “Reedyville” though the name has never been officially changed. The name is known as Adair because that name was given to the post office. The Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railroad runs through the east side of Adair. Interestingly, the two men who laid out the village of Reedyville in August of 1870 were Kent’s second great grand uncle John H. Reedy along with John’s brother in law Jacob A. Grim. 

We visited both family farms inherited by Kent and his sister, Dedra, to see how the crops of corn and soy beans were looking. We also have a few maintenance issues that need tending to. Both farms have deteriorating buildings that need to be torn down but we haven’t been able to get it accomplished for about five years now.  This is due to pandemic delays, but also the lack of people who do this type of work and the cousins who manage the farms not making time to clean out the old equipment in the structures. We also have a tree that is in very poor condition and needs to be removed before a limb falls and hurts someone. 

Kent and Dedra have two second cousins (Steve and Dave) who manage the farms and farm the land under a crop share agreement. Steve and Dave’s father Lennie, who is now deceased, is a cousin of Kent’s and their family owns land in the same area. Lennie farmed the family farms for the family for most of his life. 

When we visit the farm, we stay in the neighboring town of Macomb, founded in 1830 and is about 12 miles away. Macomb is home to Western Illinois University and has a population of about 15,000 residents including the university which has a student body of about 7,500 students this fall. Macomb was named after General Alexander Macomb, a general in the War of 1812. Macomb’s major manufacturers include Farm King and Pella Windows.

Macomb has a beautiful old historic square built around a gorgeous brick county courthouse built in 1871. Like most rural towns, the downtown area has struggled to keep tenants as most businesses are now located in newer strip malls along main streets and have left the historic downtown. 

Nine family members gathered at Vitali’s Italian Restaurant, one of the few restaurants in Macomb, for dinner. We enjoyed catching up with the family and hearing about what they have been doing. Steve and his wife Ashley have two children, Audrey and Blaine. Audrey graduated from college in the spring and has just started teaching 5th grade at the same school in which her mother teaches 1st grade. Blaine just started a two-year associates degree program in farm management. 

Tuesday August 29, 2023 Chicago, Illinois

Pine Craig Mansion
Dedra, Kent and Mark in a Covered Wagon
Print Shop
Log House
Century Memorial Chapel
Century Memorial Chapel Interior

After a relaxing morning at the house having coffee, feeding the ducks, squirrels and chipmunks, we headed out to the Naper Settlement in Naperville, Illinois. Established in 1969, Naper Settlement, through a management agreement with the City of Naperville, operates under the direction and governance of the Naperville Heritage Society, whose mission is to “document, preserve and interpret the community life of Naperville, Illinois, including, but not limited to the social, political and business history. Naper Settlement is a family-friendly outdoor history museum featuring 13 acres of learning and interactive opportunities for all ages. Located in downtown Naperville, Naper Settlement is just steps away from dining, shopping, and the Riverwalk. Visitors are immersed in history as they learn about the past and how it relates to the present, from pioneer times to today. Highlights include special events, programs and activities year-round, both on and off-site.

Dedra, Kent and I took a 90-minute walking tour of the grounds exploring all of the historic buildings like the Post Office, the blacksmith shop, the print shop, the fire station, a log home, a school house and a chapel. In the basement of the main visitor center is an extensive museum of local Naperville history. Also, on the property is the Pine Craig mansion where we took a 30-minute tour. The Pine Craig mansion is the Martin family’s grand home which was also a place of business.

In 1883, George Martin built a new home for his family on the rural edge of downtown Naperville. Called Pine Craig, the mansion stood on Locust Hill near Martin’s limestone quarries along the DuPage River. Martin’s quarrying business boomed after the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, when Chicagoans needed stone to rebuild their devastated city.
The Martins’ home, which stood near the quarries, closely tied their personal and business lives together, with dynamite blasts and clouds of limestone dust interrupting family meals. Pine Craig’s brick, tile, and stone showcased the building materials produced by George Martin’s operations. Martin met with customers in his home office, working with his daughters. Architect Joseph A. Mulvey designed Pine Craig for George Martin in the Victorian Eclectic style in 1883. After George Martin’s death in 1889, his widow and daughters stayed at Pine Craig, maintaining the family’s businesses by becoming active partners and managing their 200 acres estate.

In 1936, Martin’s daughter and last surviving heir, Caroline Martin Mitchell, created a living legacy that has lived, thrived, and expanded well into the 21st century. Through a perpetual charitable trust, she appointed the City of Naperville as the trustee of her family’s 212-acre estate. She outlined the terms and conditions to ensure that her land would be an ever-evolving legacy to the Martin family by securing Pine Craig as a museum; her orchards as a place to gather her community, and by dedicating the remaining acreage to the public good and stipulating that her lands be used to fund her museum when necessary. Today, Caroline’s vision is still being realized, and her 212 acres play a central role in shaping Naperville. Her home and orchards are now Naper Settlement. Caroline’s remaining land has shaped Naperville into a thriving epicenter of growth and progress with a variety of community assets, including Naperville Central High School, Rotary Hill, Knoch Park, the Naperville Garden Plots, Von Oven Scout Reservation, Sportsman’s Park, Edwards Hospital, Naperville Cemetery, and more.

The Century Memorial Chapel was designed in the Prairie Gothic style popular in Illinois at the time. In rural areas like Naperville, timber was more accessible than stone, the typical material used for Gothic structures. The shape of the chapel is constructed in the shape of a cross and builders encouraged churchgoers to look up to the heavens by adding details to the ceiling that would draw one’s eyes up.

Monday August 28, 2023 San Diego to Chicago, Illinois

Dedra and Pete’s Pond
Another view of the pond.
Dedra and Pete’s Home.

We departed home for the airport at 4:00am for our 6:15am direct flight to Chicago’s O’Hare Airport where we were scheduled to arrive about 12:45pm. Unfortunately, after boarding the plane the pilot announced that during his pre-check he noticed that there was an issue with his oxygen mask and it would need to be replaced. This small repair which shouldn’t take long became an hour and a half to repair. We finally got on our way to Chicago where we picked up our rental car and headed to Kent’s sisters’ (Dedra and Pete) home in Glen Ellyn, a western suburb of Chicago.

Dedra and Pete have a beautiful home situated on a small pond with ducks, squirrels, chipmunks and other birds. It is a tranquil spot to sit outside and enjoy the natural beauty of the pond and the wildlife.

After a short visit, the four of us headed out to pick up some food at Boston Market to take dinner to a niece’s (Ari and Travis) home in Bolingbrook. They have two young girls who were busy entertaining us with stories, toys, playdough and just being children. After a long day of travel, we retired early.

Friday October 28, 2022 Lisbon, Portugal to San Diego

Our flight home from Lisbon, Portugal departed about 7:20am after a 4:00am wake-up call and a 5:00 bus ride to the airport. The two-hour flight took us to London, England, where we arrived about 10:00am local time. We had a four-hour layover before departing at 2:00pm for San Diego. We enjoyed lunch with two of our traveling companions, Stephanie and Carl from Ramona at a restaurant called Giraffe. We arrived home in San Diego about 5:30pm, exhausted from a long trip and happy to be home. 

Thanks to our friends Ric and Kevin for originally suggesting the trip and for their friendship and fun times together. Thanks to our Program manager, Patricia and Concierge, Lidia for their endless energy and enthusiasm throughout our trip. They kept us going in the right direction, kept us on time, suggested places to see and places to eat. Thanks to our traveling companions for providing humor, stories of their lives and the adventure of travel. 

Thursday October 27, 2022 Lisbon, Portugal

Kevin, Kent, Ric and Mark
Mark and Ric
Mark, Kent and Ric
Mark, Kent and Ric

This was a free day for us to explore the city on our own. Kent stayed in the hotel room to rest as he is still recovering from his fall from the bus in Madrid. Mark took a free shuttle from the hotel with Miriam and Paul to the city center. Once in the city center we explored some of the shopping streets and walked along the waterfront. We stopped at an outdoor coffee stand for coffee and a banana bread. After a rest we stopped in at a currency museum where they display all types of currency from around the world. The security was very tight at the museum as they have all types of valuable coins, bills, gold bars, etc. from all over the world and from hundreds of years ago until today. They showed how coins are pressed from sheets of metal and how paper for bills is produced and then printed. It was all very interesting. 

We had an early dinner with six of our fellow travel companions at the same Italian restaurant that we had dinner in last night. It was early to bed as we have a 4:00am wake up call. 

Wednesday October 26, 2022 Lisbon, Portugal

Belem Tower
Monument of Discoveries
Jeronimo’s Monastery
Kent with a Pateis de Belem
Stone Mosaic Sidewalk
Square of Commerce
Pork Sandwich
Stone Mosaic Plaza
Crush Donuts

We began the day with an enormous buffet breakfast served in the dining room at the hotel. The hotel has 400 rooms so it is a very large dining room and the buffet has a bit of everything to offer. They cooked eggs any way you like them, waffles, ham, sausages, bacon, breads, pastries, cheeses and cold cuts, fresh fruits, cereals, muesli, juices, coffee, teas and much more. They also had a pianist who played a grand piano during breakfast. 

Next was a four-hour guided panoramic and walking tour of Lisbon including Lisbon’s famous Belem Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Belem Tower, officially the Tower of Saint Vincent is a 16th Century fortification that served as a point of embarkation or disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The beautifully ornate, four-story seaside tower is about 40-feet wide and 100-feet in height and located on the bank of the Tagus River. It was built in 1519.

We stopped to see the Monument of Discoveries created in 1940 for the Portuguese World Exposition. It was made of wood at that time, but was so popular that in 1960 it was reconstructed to mark 500 years since the death of Henry the Navigator. When it was rebuilt it was constructed with concrete and rose-tinted Leiria stone. The monument includes a portrayal of 32 navigators, warriors, colonizers, missionaries, chroniclers and artists. This monument is not far from the Belem Tower along the Tagus River. 

Jeronimo’s Monastery is a gorgeous Portuguese Gothic style structure built in the early 1500’s. Inside the monastery lies many famous tombs including that of Vasco de Gama, born about 1465 and died in 1524. We stopped to taste the famous local pastry, the Pasteis de Belem. This custard filled puff pastry with the perfect blend of lemon and cinnamon is the most popular sweet in the country. The first recipe is believed to have been created in 1837 by the monks of the Jeronimo’s Monastery. This recipe is kept a secret and therefore only at the Fabrica Pasteis de Belem can you find the original Pasteis de Belem. They sell about 42,000 of the delicious treats each day as the locals and tourists line up to get some of these sweet treats. Other similar pastries around the country are called the Pastel de Nata which are equally delicious. 

The city streets of Lisbon are all built on hills so there are many staircases, elevators and funiculars to take you from one level of the town to another. Many of the sidewalks and pedestrian plazas are paved with two-inch square, black and white stone pavers. These small paver stones are laid in beautiful patterns. The streets are lined with small cafes that spill out onto the sidewalks and plazas so you can sit and enjoy a coffee, a pastry or a meal. Famous designer shops from around the world can be found here as well as an enormous department store, the Corte de Englis where you can purchase anything from a Tesla to your groceries. 

After our tour Kent decided to return to the hotel and rest while Mark headed out into the city streets to explore with Ric and Kevin. We stopped at a local’s lunch spot for a sliced pork loin sandwich on soft white roll with au jus sauce. We later ran into a fellow traveling companion who wanted us to check out a donut shop called Crush Donuts with what they claim are American style donuts. The donuts were raised donuts larger than most you would see in the US and with much more ornamentation. Between the four of us we tried a peanut butter and chocolate donut and a pumpkin donut. The peanut butter was full of flavor and topped with roasted peanuts but the pumpkin donut fell short. While it was dipped in an orange sugar glaze it did not taste like pumpkin at all. 

For dinner Kent and I went to a small Italian restaurant a few doors from the hotel for a salad and Portuguese style pizza. The Portuguese pizza came with chorizo sausage, onions, olives, cheese and a raw egg partially cooked right in the middle. It was all good and filled us up until another buffet breakfast in our hotel. 

Tuesday October 25, 2022 Nazare, Obidos and Lisbon, Portugal

Nazare Beach
San Miguel Restaurant
Kent at the Nazare Lunch
Nazare Gift Shop Window
Nazare Beach Fish Drying
Obidos Fortress Walls
Obidos Shop
Obidos Sardine Shop

This morning, early we disembarked the m/s Douro Serenity for the final time, bound for our final stop in Lisbon. We stopped for lunch in Nazare, a beach town famous for its monstrous waves and surfing culture. Nazare is about 135 miles southwest of Porto and about 80 miles north of Lisbon. The bus ride took us about three hours to drive with a comfort stop along the route. 

Nazare, a town of only about 10,000 inhabitants, was once known as a fishing village but has now become a tourist destination for its Mediterranean climate, quaint seaside town and its surfing. The coastline here has some of the largest waves in the world created by an underwater canyon that increases and converges the incoming ocean swell with the local water current, dramatically enlarging the wave heights. 

The restaurant called San Miguel, where we had lunch, was tucked against the hillside and elevated over the white sand beach. For lunch we had deep fried fish balls and sticks with cheese. Next came a green salad with tomatoes, onions and vinegar and oil dressing. For the entrée they served a fried white fish with rice mixed with peas. Dessert was a vanilla ice cream with a strawberry swirl. 

After lunch we had about an hour to explore the beachside town and its many shops along the waterfront. Most of the shops were filled with Portuguese souvenirs like the cork purses and shoes, clothing, shot glasses, roosters, mugs, painted tiles and the like. Some of the folks in our group seem to do some shopping in most every town whereas we seem to pass by everything without giving it a second look. 

Our next stop along the way was at a charming seaside town called Obidos with only 3,000 residents located about 60 miles north of Lisbon. Here we took a walking tour of this small Medieval town that is encircled by a fortified wall and has become a popular tourist destination. Obidos is also popular for its bookstores. There are about 15 bookstores in this small town. It is also popular for its sour cherry liqueur called Ginginha. They serve the liqueur either in a plastic glass or in a small cup made of dark chocolate. They only charge about one euro for the tastings at most of the shops but we didn’t try it.  Kent did eat a chocolate cup from a fellow traveler who couldn’t eat chocolate.

Obidos is a very charming rural town with one main street of charming shops and cafes lining both sides of the narrow cobblestone street. Many of the shops have merchandise hanging on the walls outside and you find many plants like bougainvillea hanging over the walls to enhance the charm. An artist was painting local scenes on a porch of a building using only coffee instead of paint. The coffee creates many shades of brown tones like a watercolor. One shop is filled with small cans of sardines and fish with your birth date on them. Each can has things that happened during that year as a souvenir. Very colorful and fun but not sure how long you can keep the can of fish. 

We arrived at our hotel, the Corinthia Hotel Lisbon, after five-o’clock in the afternoon. After a short rest and some time to get settled into our new home we gathered at the hotel restaurant for a farewell dinner. We would be in Lisbon for three nights before our departure, but this was when they had the farewell dinner. Dinner included a salad with cheese and pickled pears, chicken breast stuffed with a Portuguese sausage and an apple tart dessert. Everything was very good. 

Monday October 24, 2022 Porto and Guimaraes, Portugal

Guimaraes Wall Section
Guimaraes Nunery Now the City Hall
Guimaraes Square
Guimaraes Street
Guimaraes Church Exterior
Guimaraes Church Interior
Fish Cake Shop
Fish Cakes

On this morning we had the opportunity to visit a town about an hour’s drive northeast of Porto by the name of Guimaraes. This historic town center has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its well preserved and authentic example of the evolution of a medieval settlement into a modern town. The population of the city is about 150,000 and was originally settled about in the 9th century. It is often referred to as the “birthplace of Portugal” because it is believed that Portugal’s first King, Afonso Henriques, was born here.  

We experienced a bit of rain during our visit, otherwise the weather was mostly cloudy and slightly cool. We toured the historic old walled city and its rustic cobblestoned streets with our guide. Most of the buildings are very old and in differing states of disrepair. Some abandoned, some restored and many showing their age. Several large churches are located in the old city with their bell towers, ornate altars, paintings and artifacts. Cafes line the public squares for people to stop and enjoy a bite to eat and a snack or a full meal. A few souvenir shops sell items like colorful tiles and ceramics, fine filigree jewelry and locally made cork and linen products. 

Lunch was back onboard the ship with the afternoon at leisure in Porto. We took this opportunity to have a little nap after the long week of activities onboard and to begin preparing for our trip to Lisbon early the next morning.

Others headed several miles east of Porto’s city center to the area called Gondomar which is well known for its Portuguese filigree jewelry. The exact origin of the jewelry is unknown, but it is believed to date back to around 2000 BC, with Phoenician origins. The technique consists in molding metal into very fine threads, mainly gold alloy, and then twisted two-by-two and then flattened. The threads are as thin as a hair strand and the twisting gives them greater resistance allowing them to be bent and rolled without breaking. Expert artisans work these very fine threads into delicate looking brooches, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings. 

Several of us joined the ships concierge, Lidia, on a short walk to a local café to taste a local specialty, the fish cake. The fish cakes are made of cod with a local cheese from the north of Portugal inside and the outside has a slight amount of breading. The fish cakes are served warm with a glass of cold white port wine. The Café where they sell the fish cakes had an organist playing a vintage pipe organ to attract people to the shop. 

We then went to a local bar where folks tried a local beer called dirty beer where they add a little local wine to the beer. They also have what they call the ladies drink, dirty beer with red grenadine syrup which makes the beer red and much sweeter. Not any better than regular beer to me.