Wednesday August 30, 2023 Chicago to Adair, Illinois

Typical Illinois Landscape with Soy Bean Field
Old Corn Crib to be Torn Down
Old Garage Needing Demolition

Late this morning we headed from Glen Ellyn to Adair, Illinois, where Kent’s family has had family farms for over 125 years. The 215-mile drive took us about four hours with a couple of rest stops along the way. 

Adair is a small farming community in McDonough County with a population of only 212 residents. Adair was laid out in 1870 under the name of “Reedyville” though the name has never been officially changed. The name is known as Adair because that name was given to the post office. The Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railroad runs through the east side of Adair. Interestingly, the two men who laid out the village of Reedyville in August of 1870 were Kent’s second great grand uncle John H. Reedy along with John’s brother in law Jacob A. Grim. 

We visited both family farms inherited by Kent and his sister, Dedra, to see how the crops of corn and soy beans were looking. We also have a few maintenance issues that need tending to. Both farms have deteriorating buildings that need to be torn down but we haven’t been able to get it accomplished for about five years now.  This is due to pandemic delays, but also the lack of people who do this type of work and the cousins who manage the farms not making time to clean out the old equipment in the structures. We also have a tree that is in very poor condition and needs to be removed before a limb falls and hurts someone. 

Kent and Dedra have two second cousins (Steve and Dave) who manage the farms and farm the land under a crop share agreement. Steve and Dave’s father Lennie, who is now deceased, is a cousin of Kent’s and their family owns land in the same area. Lennie farmed the family farms for the family for most of his life. 

When we visit the farm, we stay in the neighboring town of Macomb, founded in 1830 and is about 12 miles away. Macomb is home to Western Illinois University and has a population of about 15,000 residents including the university which has a student body of about 7,500 students this fall. Macomb was named after General Alexander Macomb, a general in the War of 1812. Macomb’s major manufacturers include Farm King and Pella Windows.

Macomb has a beautiful old historic square built around a gorgeous brick county courthouse built in 1871. Like most rural towns, the downtown area has struggled to keep tenants as most businesses are now located in newer strip malls along main streets and have left the historic downtown. 

Nine family members gathered at Vitali’s Italian Restaurant, one of the few restaurants in Macomb, for dinner. We enjoyed catching up with the family and hearing about what they have been doing. Steve and his wife Ashley have two children, Audrey and Blaine. Audrey graduated from college in the spring and has just started teaching 5th grade at the same school in which her mother teaches 1st grade. Blaine just started a two-year associates degree program in farm management. 

Tuesday August 29, 2023 Chicago, Illinois

Pine Craig Mansion
Dedra, Kent and Mark in a Covered Wagon
Print Shop
Log House
Century Memorial Chapel
Century Memorial Chapel Interior

After a relaxing morning at the house having coffee, feeding the ducks, squirrels and chipmunks, we headed out to the Naper Settlement in Naperville, Illinois. Established in 1969, Naper Settlement, through a management agreement with the City of Naperville, operates under the direction and governance of the Naperville Heritage Society, whose mission is to “document, preserve and interpret the community life of Naperville, Illinois, including, but not limited to the social, political and business history. Naper Settlement is a family-friendly outdoor history museum featuring 13 acres of learning and interactive opportunities for all ages. Located in downtown Naperville, Naper Settlement is just steps away from dining, shopping, and the Riverwalk. Visitors are immersed in history as they learn about the past and how it relates to the present, from pioneer times to today. Highlights include special events, programs and activities year-round, both on and off-site.

Dedra, Kent and I took a 90-minute walking tour of the grounds exploring all of the historic buildings like the Post Office, the blacksmith shop, the print shop, the fire station, a log home, a school house and a chapel. In the basement of the main visitor center is an extensive museum of local Naperville history. Also, on the property is the Pine Craig mansion where we took a 30-minute tour. The Pine Craig mansion is the Martin family’s grand home which was also a place of business.

In 1883, George Martin built a new home for his family on the rural edge of downtown Naperville. Called Pine Craig, the mansion stood on Locust Hill near Martin’s limestone quarries along the DuPage River. Martin’s quarrying business boomed after the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, when Chicagoans needed stone to rebuild their devastated city.
The Martins’ home, which stood near the quarries, closely tied their personal and business lives together, with dynamite blasts and clouds of limestone dust interrupting family meals. Pine Craig’s brick, tile, and stone showcased the building materials produced by George Martin’s operations. Martin met with customers in his home office, working with his daughters. Architect Joseph A. Mulvey designed Pine Craig for George Martin in the Victorian Eclectic style in 1883. After George Martin’s death in 1889, his widow and daughters stayed at Pine Craig, maintaining the family’s businesses by becoming active partners and managing their 200 acres estate.

In 1936, Martin’s daughter and last surviving heir, Caroline Martin Mitchell, created a living legacy that has lived, thrived, and expanded well into the 21st century. Through a perpetual charitable trust, she appointed the City of Naperville as the trustee of her family’s 212-acre estate. She outlined the terms and conditions to ensure that her land would be an ever-evolving legacy to the Martin family by securing Pine Craig as a museum; her orchards as a place to gather her community, and by dedicating the remaining acreage to the public good and stipulating that her lands be used to fund her museum when necessary. Today, Caroline’s vision is still being realized, and her 212 acres play a central role in shaping Naperville. Her home and orchards are now Naper Settlement. Caroline’s remaining land has shaped Naperville into a thriving epicenter of growth and progress with a variety of community assets, including Naperville Central High School, Rotary Hill, Knoch Park, the Naperville Garden Plots, Von Oven Scout Reservation, Sportsman’s Park, Edwards Hospital, Naperville Cemetery, and more.

The Century Memorial Chapel was designed in the Prairie Gothic style popular in Illinois at the time. In rural areas like Naperville, timber was more accessible than stone, the typical material used for Gothic structures. The shape of the chapel is constructed in the shape of a cross and builders encouraged churchgoers to look up to the heavens by adding details to the ceiling that would draw one’s eyes up.

Monday August 28, 2023 San Diego to Chicago, Illinois

Dedra and Pete’s Pond
Another view of the pond.
Dedra and Pete’s Home.

We departed home for the airport at 4:00am for our 6:15am direct flight to Chicago’s O’Hare Airport where we were scheduled to arrive about 12:45pm. Unfortunately, after boarding the plane the pilot announced that during his pre-check he noticed that there was an issue with his oxygen mask and it would need to be replaced. This small repair which shouldn’t take long became an hour and a half to repair. We finally got on our way to Chicago where we picked up our rental car and headed to Kent’s sisters’ (Dedra and Pete) home in Glen Ellyn, a western suburb of Chicago.

Dedra and Pete have a beautiful home situated on a small pond with ducks, squirrels, chipmunks and other birds. It is a tranquil spot to sit outside and enjoy the natural beauty of the pond and the wildlife.

After a short visit, the four of us headed out to pick up some food at Boston Market to take dinner to a niece’s (Ari and Travis) home in Bolingbrook. They have two young girls who were busy entertaining us with stories, toys, playdough and just being children. After a long day of travel, we retired early.

Friday October 28, 2022 Lisbon, Portugal to San Diego

Our flight home from Lisbon, Portugal departed about 7:20am after a 4:00am wake-up call and a 5:00 bus ride to the airport. The two-hour flight took us to London, England, where we arrived about 10:00am local time. We had a four-hour layover before departing at 2:00pm for San Diego. We enjoyed lunch with two of our traveling companions, Stephanie and Carl from Ramona at a restaurant called Giraffe. We arrived home in San Diego about 5:30pm, exhausted from a long trip and happy to be home. 

Thanks to our friends Ric and Kevin for originally suggesting the trip and for their friendship and fun times together. Thanks to our Program manager, Patricia and Concierge, Lidia for their endless energy and enthusiasm throughout our trip. They kept us going in the right direction, kept us on time, suggested places to see and places to eat. Thanks to our traveling companions for providing humor, stories of their lives and the adventure of travel. 

Thursday October 27, 2022 Lisbon, Portugal

Kevin, Kent, Ric and Mark
Mark and Ric
Mark, Kent and Ric
Mark, Kent and Ric

This was a free day for us to explore the city on our own. Kent stayed in the hotel room to rest as he is still recovering from his fall from the bus in Madrid. Mark took a free shuttle from the hotel with Miriam and Paul to the city center. Once in the city center we explored some of the shopping streets and walked along the waterfront. We stopped at an outdoor coffee stand for coffee and a banana bread. After a rest we stopped in at a currency museum where they display all types of currency from around the world. The security was very tight at the museum as they have all types of valuable coins, bills, gold bars, etc. from all over the world and from hundreds of years ago until today. They showed how coins are pressed from sheets of metal and how paper for bills is produced and then printed. It was all very interesting. 

We had an early dinner with six of our fellow travel companions at the same Italian restaurant that we had dinner in last night. It was early to bed as we have a 4:00am wake up call. 

Wednesday October 26, 2022 Lisbon, Portugal

Belem Tower
Monument of Discoveries
Jeronimo’s Monastery
Kent with a Pateis de Belem
Stone Mosaic Sidewalk
Square of Commerce
Pork Sandwich
Stone Mosaic Plaza
Crush Donuts

We began the day with an enormous buffet breakfast served in the dining room at the hotel. The hotel has 400 rooms so it is a very large dining room and the buffet has a bit of everything to offer. They cooked eggs any way you like them, waffles, ham, sausages, bacon, breads, pastries, cheeses and cold cuts, fresh fruits, cereals, muesli, juices, coffee, teas and much more. They also had a pianist who played a grand piano during breakfast. 

Next was a four-hour guided panoramic and walking tour of Lisbon including Lisbon’s famous Belem Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Belem Tower, officially the Tower of Saint Vincent is a 16th Century fortification that served as a point of embarkation or disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The beautifully ornate, four-story seaside tower is about 40-feet wide and 100-feet in height and located on the bank of the Tagus River. It was built in 1519.

We stopped to see the Monument of Discoveries created in 1940 for the Portuguese World Exposition. It was made of wood at that time, but was so popular that in 1960 it was reconstructed to mark 500 years since the death of Henry the Navigator. When it was rebuilt it was constructed with concrete and rose-tinted Leiria stone. The monument includes a portrayal of 32 navigators, warriors, colonizers, missionaries, chroniclers and artists. This monument is not far from the Belem Tower along the Tagus River. 

Jeronimo’s Monastery is a gorgeous Portuguese Gothic style structure built in the early 1500’s. Inside the monastery lies many famous tombs including that of Vasco de Gama, born about 1465 and died in 1524. We stopped to taste the famous local pastry, the Pasteis de Belem. This custard filled puff pastry with the perfect blend of lemon and cinnamon is the most popular sweet in the country. The first recipe is believed to have been created in 1837 by the monks of the Jeronimo’s Monastery. This recipe is kept a secret and therefore only at the Fabrica Pasteis de Belem can you find the original Pasteis de Belem. They sell about 42,000 of the delicious treats each day as the locals and tourists line up to get some of these sweet treats. Other similar pastries around the country are called the Pastel de Nata which are equally delicious. 

The city streets of Lisbon are all built on hills so there are many staircases, elevators and funiculars to take you from one level of the town to another. Many of the sidewalks and pedestrian plazas are paved with two-inch square, black and white stone pavers. These small paver stones are laid in beautiful patterns. The streets are lined with small cafes that spill out onto the sidewalks and plazas so you can sit and enjoy a coffee, a pastry or a meal. Famous designer shops from around the world can be found here as well as an enormous department store, the Corte de Englis where you can purchase anything from a Tesla to your groceries. 

After our tour Kent decided to return to the hotel and rest while Mark headed out into the city streets to explore with Ric and Kevin. We stopped at a local’s lunch spot for a sliced pork loin sandwich on soft white roll with au jus sauce. We later ran into a fellow traveling companion who wanted us to check out a donut shop called Crush Donuts with what they claim are American style donuts. The donuts were raised donuts larger than most you would see in the US and with much more ornamentation. Between the four of us we tried a peanut butter and chocolate donut and a pumpkin donut. The peanut butter was full of flavor and topped with roasted peanuts but the pumpkin donut fell short. While it was dipped in an orange sugar glaze it did not taste like pumpkin at all. 

For dinner Kent and I went to a small Italian restaurant a few doors from the hotel for a salad and Portuguese style pizza. The Portuguese pizza came with chorizo sausage, onions, olives, cheese and a raw egg partially cooked right in the middle. It was all good and filled us up until another buffet breakfast in our hotel. 

Tuesday October 25, 2022 Nazare, Obidos and Lisbon, Portugal

Nazare Beach
San Miguel Restaurant
Kent at the Nazare Lunch
Nazare Gift Shop Window
Nazare Beach Fish Drying
Obidos Fortress Walls
Obidos Shop
Obidos Sardine Shop

This morning, early we disembarked the m/s Douro Serenity for the final time, bound for our final stop in Lisbon. We stopped for lunch in Nazare, a beach town famous for its monstrous waves and surfing culture. Nazare is about 135 miles southwest of Porto and about 80 miles north of Lisbon. The bus ride took us about three hours to drive with a comfort stop along the route. 

Nazare, a town of only about 10,000 inhabitants, was once known as a fishing village but has now become a tourist destination for its Mediterranean climate, quaint seaside town and its surfing. The coastline here has some of the largest waves in the world created by an underwater canyon that increases and converges the incoming ocean swell with the local water current, dramatically enlarging the wave heights. 

The restaurant called San Miguel, where we had lunch, was tucked against the hillside and elevated over the white sand beach. For lunch we had deep fried fish balls and sticks with cheese. Next came a green salad with tomatoes, onions and vinegar and oil dressing. For the entrée they served a fried white fish with rice mixed with peas. Dessert was a vanilla ice cream with a strawberry swirl. 

After lunch we had about an hour to explore the beachside town and its many shops along the waterfront. Most of the shops were filled with Portuguese souvenirs like the cork purses and shoes, clothing, shot glasses, roosters, mugs, painted tiles and the like. Some of the folks in our group seem to do some shopping in most every town whereas we seem to pass by everything without giving it a second look. 

Our next stop along the way was at a charming seaside town called Obidos with only 3,000 residents located about 60 miles north of Lisbon. Here we took a walking tour of this small Medieval town that is encircled by a fortified wall and has become a popular tourist destination. Obidos is also popular for its bookstores. There are about 15 bookstores in this small town. It is also popular for its sour cherry liqueur called Ginginha. They serve the liqueur either in a plastic glass or in a small cup made of dark chocolate. They only charge about one euro for the tastings at most of the shops but we didn’t try it.  Kent did eat a chocolate cup from a fellow traveler who couldn’t eat chocolate.

Obidos is a very charming rural town with one main street of charming shops and cafes lining both sides of the narrow cobblestone street. Many of the shops have merchandise hanging on the walls outside and you find many plants like bougainvillea hanging over the walls to enhance the charm. An artist was painting local scenes on a porch of a building using only coffee instead of paint. The coffee creates many shades of brown tones like a watercolor. One shop is filled with small cans of sardines and fish with your birth date on them. Each can has things that happened during that year as a souvenir. Very colorful and fun but not sure how long you can keep the can of fish. 

We arrived at our hotel, the Corinthia Hotel Lisbon, after five-o’clock in the afternoon. After a short rest and some time to get settled into our new home we gathered at the hotel restaurant for a farewell dinner. We would be in Lisbon for three nights before our departure, but this was when they had the farewell dinner. Dinner included a salad with cheese and pickled pears, chicken breast stuffed with a Portuguese sausage and an apple tart dessert. Everything was very good. 

Monday October 24, 2022 Porto and Guimaraes, Portugal

Guimaraes Wall Section
Guimaraes Nunery Now the City Hall
Guimaraes Square
Guimaraes Street
Guimaraes Church Exterior
Guimaraes Church Interior
Fish Cake Shop
Fish Cakes

On this morning we had the opportunity to visit a town about an hour’s drive northeast of Porto by the name of Guimaraes. This historic town center has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its well preserved and authentic example of the evolution of a medieval settlement into a modern town. The population of the city is about 150,000 and was originally settled about in the 9th century. It is often referred to as the “birthplace of Portugal” because it is believed that Portugal’s first King, Afonso Henriques, was born here.  

We experienced a bit of rain during our visit, otherwise the weather was mostly cloudy and slightly cool. We toured the historic old walled city and its rustic cobblestoned streets with our guide. Most of the buildings are very old and in differing states of disrepair. Some abandoned, some restored and many showing their age. Several large churches are located in the old city with their bell towers, ornate altars, paintings and artifacts. Cafes line the public squares for people to stop and enjoy a bite to eat and a snack or a full meal. A few souvenir shops sell items like colorful tiles and ceramics, fine filigree jewelry and locally made cork and linen products. 

Lunch was back onboard the ship with the afternoon at leisure in Porto. We took this opportunity to have a little nap after the long week of activities onboard and to begin preparing for our trip to Lisbon early the next morning.

Others headed several miles east of Porto’s city center to the area called Gondomar which is well known for its Portuguese filigree jewelry. The exact origin of the jewelry is unknown, but it is believed to date back to around 2000 BC, with Phoenician origins. The technique consists in molding metal into very fine threads, mainly gold alloy, and then twisted two-by-two and then flattened. The threads are as thin as a hair strand and the twisting gives them greater resistance allowing them to be bent and rolled without breaking. Expert artisans work these very fine threads into delicate looking brooches, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings. 

Several of us joined the ships concierge, Lidia, on a short walk to a local café to taste a local specialty, the fish cake. The fish cakes are made of cod with a local cheese from the north of Portugal inside and the outside has a slight amount of breading. The fish cakes are served warm with a glass of cold white port wine. The Café where they sell the fish cakes had an organist playing a vintage pipe organ to attract people to the shop. 

We then went to a local bar where folks tried a local beer called dirty beer where they add a little local wine to the beer. They also have what they call the ladies drink, dirty beer with red grenadine syrup which makes the beer red and much sweeter. Not any better than regular beer to me. 

Sunday October 23, 2022 Porto Portugal

Taylor Cellars in Gaia
City View of Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral
Building Facades in Porto
Porto Train Station
Porto Train Station Tile Mural
Public Square in Porto
Mouth of the Douro River

On our final leg of our cruise on the Douro River we sailed into the town of Porto this morning in a downpour of rain with very little visibility. Porto, with a population of about 240,000 people, is the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon. This does not account for the nearly 2.4 million people living in the metropolitan area. The city is located along the Douro River in northwestern Portugal and its historical core was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Across from Porto is the town of Gaia where we docked. Gaia is the area where most of the wineries have cellars.  The higher humidity and lower temperatures are more conducive to wine storage than in the heat of the Douro River Valley.

The history of Porto began around 300BC with the Celtic people being the first known inhabitants. Ruins from this period have been discovered in several areas. During the Roman occupation of the Iberian Peninsula the city developed as an important port. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Porto’s shipyards contributed to the development of Portuguese shipbuilding. 

One of Portugal’s internationally famous exports is the port wine named after Porto and produced in the Douro Valley as far back as the 13th century.  Other top exports include cork and sardines.

On this morning we visited one of the city’s best-known cellars to check out the port wine that the city is known for. We took a short-guided tour of the Taylor wine cellar as well as had a tasting of both a white and a red port wine. The cellar sits high above the river on the Gaia side of the river where all of the wine cellars are located.  The cellar has panoramic views over the city and the river. 

We enjoyed lunch back onboard before a panoramic tour of the city of Porto, including the exterior of the Porto Cathedral, a Roman Catholic Church located in the heart of the old town. 

We stopped in at the 1916 train station in the center of town to view the beautiful murals on the walls. These murals are painted on approximately 20,000 Azulejo tiles. The tiles are painted in blue on white tiles and are quite extraordinary. They reminded us of the ceramic Dutch tiles.  The scenes depict battles, the conquest of Ceuta and many scenes from historical events in Portugal’s history. The city is filled with architecturally interesting buildings one stacked right next to another. The majority of buildings have red clay tile roofs which give the city skyline a very unique look. 

After dinner, a local tuna band performed in the ships lounge. A tuna band is a group of university students in traditional university dress who play traditional instruments and sing serenades. This tradition originated in Portugal in the 13thcentury as a means for students to earn money and food. This group was ten students who performed local songs for about 45-minutes. It was very interesting. 

Saturday October 22, 2022 Entre-os-Rios, Portugal

Modern Construction Along the River
Carrapatelo Lock
Inside the Carrapatelo Lock
Aveleda Winery Tea House
Aveleda Winery Garden
Aveleda Winery Family Residence
Captains Dinner

In the morning we set sail down river passing the deepest lock in Europe called the Carrapatelo Lock with a height of 115 feet. The voyage along the Douro in this area is more developed than the area further east and the terrain has changed. Where there were grape vines and olive trees there is now much more wild vegetation, steeper hillsides and the river is much narrower in some places. The day is filled with rain showers but the scenery is still beautiful. 

While we were sailing, Patricia, the cruise director presented a brief history of Portugal so that we could better understand the culture of the country. She discussed how the country came to be and how the borders have changed over time. Portugal only has one neighbor, Spain, although they were great explorers around the world and have had many other colonies over the years. They controlled Macau until they gave the land to China and they controlled Timor in Africa which is now an independent nation. They still control Madeira and the Azores in the Atlantic. 

After lunch onboard, we docked at the town of Entre-os-Rios or “in between the rivers” at the confluence of the Tamega and Douro Rivers. The small town was a tragic spot in March of 2001when the Hintze Ribeiro Bridge collapsed after flooding of the river and a strong current. The collapse caused the death of 59 people. Since then a new bridge called the Duarte Pacheco bridge was built reconnecting the town of Torrao to Entre-os-Rios.

We took a 30-minute ride to the Aveleda Winery for a tasting of Vinho Verde. The name Vinho Verde translates into green wine but can also be translated as young wine. These young wines can be released three to six months after the grapes are harvested. The wines are reds, whites and rose and can be consumed shortly after bottling. Vinho Verde also has a popular sparkling version. This area has as many as 20,000 small grape growers. 

The grounds at the Aveleda winery were very beautiful with vast gardens that have been in the family for some 300 years and they have produced wines for 150 years. The family would collect plants from around the world over the years and bring them home to plant in the garden. They even have a couple of California Sequoia trees. We saw a lake and the tea house where the ladies would go to drink wine under the guise of having tea as it was more acceptable at the time. 

After the tour of the gardens and the brandy cellar we were treated to a wine tasting in a very modern tasting room large enough to seat more than 100 people. We tasted two white wines, one a bit more acidic and the other sweeter. They also served up some cheese and crackers. Everywhere we go we are given wine, wine and more wine. It matters not what time of day it is. 

On this night they had the Captain’s farewell party as we will arrive the next day in Porto and people will have time to explore on their own. The dinner was a five-course dinner with an appetizer, soup, hot appetizer, entrée and baked Alaska for dessert. After dinner, a local trio came onboard to perform favorites from the ‘60’s, ‘70’s and ‘80’s. The captain joined the fun and danced with many of the women.